Monday, March 21, 2011

Tax Time

If you sold your home recently, you're probably wondering how this large transaction figures into your income tax liability.

The U.S. tax code treatment for home sales and mortgage financing is extremely favorable, and you can save a lot of money by understanding the tax code. Before the recession, many people made a lot of tax-free income by buying and selling homes every two years or so and taking advantage of available exclusions. Knowing what the Internal Revenue Service (IRS) allows not only helps home sellers, but also helps those who plan on making a home purchase in the future.

The three key points we're going to cover here are: 1) Whether you need to report capital gains; 2) Calculating your capital gains; and 3) Deduction of points paid but not yet amortized.

Excluding capital gains from the sale of your home

In instances where you have met certain ownership and occupancy requirements, you can exclude capital gains from a home sale.

Single and separate filers whose gains don't exceed $250,000 and married couples with gains of $500,000 or less are off the hook. You are not even required to report the sale. Here are the main requirements for exclusion, detailed at IRS.gov:

  • During the five years leading up to the sale, you must have owned the property for at least two years;
  • In that five-year period, you must have used the home as your primary residence for at least two years. These periods do not have to be continuous, and they don't have to be concurrent. For example, if you had a lease option, you may have lived in the home while you didn't own it, and then you may have bought the property but then rented it out.

If you determine that your capital gains can be excluded, you don't have to do anything else.

There are some exceptions (as this is the IRS, there are exceptions to everything). You can still claim some or all of the exclusion in the following cases:

  • You become too ill or disabled to care for yourself at home and you did live there at least one year;
  • Your previous home was destroyed or condemned;
  • You are a member of the uniformed services or Foreign Service, an employee of the intelligence community or an employee or volunteer of the Peace Corps;
  • You have to sell involuntarily because of your employment, health or other unforeseen circumstance.

If you meet the above requirements, the rest of the calculation is a no-brainer. For instance, if you sold your home for less than $250,000, obviously you didn't see capital gains exceeding the maximum--you are done.

If that's not your situation, you have more calculations to do.

Calculating the capital gain on the sale of your home

Here's how to calculate the gain on the sale of your home for the IRS:

  • Take the selling price of the property and subtract the expenses of the sale (such as real estate commissions) to get your net proceeds.
  • If you receive form 1099-S, the amount in 'box 2' is your proceeds. (Note: you won't receive a 1099-S if your entire gain can definitely be excluded.)
  • From the net proceeds, subtract what you paid to acquire the property--which is the sales price plus closing costs (but not mortgage lender fees). You can find this number on your closing statement.
  • You may have to make some adjustments. For example, if you made improvements to the property or paid a special assessment for local improvements, you subtract those costs from your gain. When sellers pay points to lower buyers' mortgage rates, those amounts must be added back. If you ever rented the home out and deducted depreciation, you have to add the amount deducted back in when calculating your gain.

Example of capital gains calculation:

John sold the home he owned and lived in for the last eight years for $600,000, and he is not married. He calculates his gain as follows:

  • Sales price is $600,000;
  • Subtract $20,000 in selling expenses to get $580,000;
  • Add back $5,000 for the points that the seller paid when John purchased the home--balance is $585,000;
  • Subtract the $70,000 that he spent renovating the kitchen--balance is $515,000;
  • Finally, subtract what John spent to buy the home. The purchase price was $200,000 and his closing costs (excluding loan fees) were $3,000, leaving a balance of $312,000.

That $312,000 would all be taxable income if John didn't qualify to exclude his maximum of $250,000, but he does. So he only has $62,000 of income from the sale of his home subject to income tax. He reports this amount on Schedule D and will pay the long-term capital gain rate of 15 percent.

Another exception from the IRS determining your capital gains: If you received the home as a gift or inheritance or you are a surviving spouse, your basis is calculated from the fair market value of the home when you received it.

Is there anything else I need to take care of?

People often forget about deducting points paid to lower their mortgage rates. For example, if you paid $3,000 in points when you refinanced your home two years ago, you were probably able to deduct only $100 per year (because points paid in a refinance transaction must be amortized). If that's the case, you may have $2,800 in undeducted points that you may be able to deduct this year.

Saturday, January 8, 2011

Toilet Paper & Life

I started reading a lot of blogs to see what people are writing about and do you know what I found? They write about stuff. About thoughts. About observations. And those are the most popular blogs. It's not news. It's not links to shopping... it's stuff.

I started thinking about this blog. It's a news-y kind of thing. Updated it once a week with something real estate news-y. I see people clicking over to it, I see people coming from Facebook. All good, but the blog just doesn't seem compelling. I read some of the posts, and I was a little bored.

Then I went to the bathroom (No, not a bunch of potty humor now) and, since now I am in self discovery mode, start looking at the roll of toilet paper. For my whole life, I always put the roll in so the paper feeds over the top. ALWAYS. If it was coming out the bottom, it needed to be fixed.

Today, I live! I changed the roll so that it feeds out of the bottom of the roll. Viva la change. The blog is changing to be more fun. Still good info, but not as stodgy. It feels liberating. Watch for more here! I'm going to change more! Not sure what, but stuff is changing. The new Mark is here.

Maybe it's time to change the way your toilet paper rolls too! Just a thought, not a sermon.

Thursday, December 9, 2010

Can I really buy?

If you are currently renting, maybe you shouldn't be. Everyone buys real estate. You can either buy it and own it for yourself, or if you are renting, you are buying it for someone else.

Consider this: if you are paying (for example) $1,200/mo in rent for your 2br, 2ba apartment or townhouse you can probably own a nice place for the same money. And it's yours!

That $1,200/mo rent probably equates to the same payment you would have on a $175,000 home! Interest rates are at all time lows. Today I see you can get a mortgage for around 4.5%. Of course this depends on your credit, but for the sake of argument, let's assume credit is good.

Here's how the numbers breakdown:
- A $175,000 home at 4.5% means that your payment to the bank for principal and interest would be about $897/mo.
- You have to pay property taxes (which you don't when you rent). Assume they are $2,000/yr. $2,000/12 = $167/mo.
- You have to pay home owners insurance to cover the home in case of fire, etc. That's probably around $44/mo. You are probably paying some of this now for your renters insurance.
- You have to pay mortgage insurance to the bank if you get an FHA loan (everyone gets FHA loans today because you only have to put 3.5% down). That's about $74/mo.
So, total monthly payment to own is $1,182!

When you are ready to move, you'll get money back (you won't renting!).

Just food for thought... why rent?

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

The Condo Problem/Opportunity

Condos, Condos, Condos... not too long ago, FHA (where most people these days are getting their loans) said that if more than 15% of a condo development is delinquent on condo fees FHA will not lend any money for mortgages in that development.

In today's economy, where people are losing work and investments are losing value, there are a lot of people using their money for things other than condo fees (like food, clothing, etc). That 15% delinquency is getting worse in lots of condo developments.

Then Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac made the same rule for their CONVENTIONAL loans. Delinquency rate over 15%... NO LOANS.

What's that mean? It means condos won't get sold because buyers can’t get a mortgage to buy them. Period.

Sellers still need to sell. So they lower the prices to fire sale pricing to attract cash buyers. That’s why prices are SOOOOO low for condos. Condos that were selling for $200k a few years ago and listed for <$100k now and still not selling (no mortgages!). My Doctor told me today that units in his development that sold for $300k 2 years ago (for 3,000sqft units) are listed for <$50k now. Sellers are trying to attract cash buyers. But… cash buyers won't buy condos because they cant sell them.

That's the problem. The opportunity is: When the condo problem is fixed and people can buy condos again, prices will go back up.

Prices are low now because there is no (buyer) demand. Once the problem is fixed and the demand is restored, prices will go up.

If you can wait for the condo problem to be fixed (who knows how or when it’s going to be fixed) you can get a condo at FIRE SALE prices now. What if you bought one at today's 40-50cents on the dollar and rented it until the problem is fixed and then sold it when prices were zooming back up? Good idea? who knows, but an idea just the same.

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

when it's time to move... move

this week is an advice column...

when you've decided that it's time to move, it probably will be for reasons other than to make money selling your house. It might be to move your kids into a new school district, buy a bigger house so your family is more comfortable, buy a smaller house because your kids are grown or whatever the reason, it will be a "life reason"

You've made the decision to move. Price your house so that you get what you need and be done with it. Don't price it high to "test the market" and plan to lower it. Go out with both guns blazing, set a fair price, sell your house and move on/up!

I see, too often, people that can't move because they tried to get too much for their house, "tested" the market with a high price, lowered it after a few weeks but the market had fallen out from under them. Now they can't get what they need and they are stuck in the house that is in the wrong school district, or too small or too big.

If you are moving for the money that's one thing. If your reasons are anything else,
-- PRICE YOUR HOUSE TO SELL RIGHT AWAY,
-- PRICE IT AT A FIRM PRICE AND DON'T BUILD IN NEGOTIATION BUFFERS,

Don't be stuck where you are.

Friday, June 4, 2010

Week in review

It's been a busy week. Why?

- Rates are super low. Depending on your credit (and other factors) rates can be as low as the high 4's.

- Inventory is high. There are a lot of houses on the market and more coming on quickly. There are a lot of houses still on the market that are over-priced or in poor condition but the nice ones that are priced right are selling!

- Home prices continue to decline. Bad news for sellers but good news for the market in general. Prices are coming back to where they should be. That will be good for the market as buyers see value and buy. Prices will come back when inventory is lower (high inventory = low prices, low inventory = high prices)

Buying in a fast(er) paced market

I have seen too many times lately, a buyer who loves a house and then looses it to someone else while they try to make up their minds.

In a market where more and more people are competing for a smaller and smaller number of (nice) houses, the early bird gets the worm. Meaning, you have to be prepared, as a buyer, to act when you find the home of your dreams.

Buying a house is a BIG step. I understand. When you (a buyer) find a house you like, in a area that you like for a price you like... make and offer! As a Realtor, it's part of my responsibility to help point out potential "gotchas" and to make sure that the contracts are structured so that you are not forced into buying a home that has problems.

For example:
- You'll get a home inspection (and septic, well, water quality, radon, etc). Those experts will tell you if there are problems. If the problems are workable, we'll ask the seller to correct. If not, you'll be able to back out and move on. Each transaction can be different so I'll make sure you understand what you are getting into.

- In Maryland, we use a contract that has a financing contingency, meaning that if you are unable to get a loan, you won't be forced into buying the house.

When you find a nice house at a nice price, you should know that other people are also going to recognize the value. Make a decision and then we'll let the expert inspectors confirm that you have made the right choice.